Home Improvement & Interior Design Blogs | Dorhemshech.org

Posts Tagged ‘greenhouse’

A garden is like a blank canvas, in which you can put almost anything you want. Whether it’s a place to sit, or things to eat, or just things to look at, you can put them in your garden – an outdoor space of your very own.

The most common thing to do with gardens is to fill them with plants, especially grass lawns, but also bushes and trees. It can be very rewarding to see what you planted only a few months ago starting to take root – and then, over the years, seeing it grow larger and thrive. While it takes care and attention, gardening is a hobby that many people feel they can get into.

Once you’re good enough to plant flowers and bushes and have them survive from season to season, you might even feel brave enough to start growing some of your own food. There are many crops you can grow even in a modestly-sized garden that will produce a lot of food and taste very good when you harvest them – root vegetables like potatoes and carrots work very well, as do berry bushes and apple trees. Food tastes much better when you know you’ve grown it yourself, and you save money too.
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May in Southwestern New Mexico & west Texas can be hot, dry and/or windy. Take precautions to make sure all watering systems are working at their best.

Use Cypress mulch to help keep roots insulated from the HOT sun. This helps keep moisture in the root zone as well as the keeping weeds down to a minimum.

Lantana, red bird of paradise, Oleander, and other winter damaged plants may be emerging at this time. Do NOT remove them permaturely. These plants will emerge if watered occasionally during winter.

Crape Myrtle will begin to show flower buds at this time and will need regular watering when flowers begin to develop. They like fertilzing and resist “leaf burn” if given a soil acidifying product such as Ironite in conjuction with a regular fertilizer. Remove faded flower tips reguarly.

Planting during this month is still successfull. The Vitex, oleander, crape myrtle, roses, bird of paradise, texas sage, butterfuly bush, red yucca and most “xeriscaping” plants will thrive when planted during this month. Be sure to water thoroughly when first planted.

Trees will also fall into this category. Just follow the directions as noted above. All ash, mesquite, desert willow (timeless beauty is a new variety), Chitalpa, Palo Verde, Live Oak, Chinese Pitache, and many more. Call us at 505 523 1520 for availabilty.
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TEMPERATURE

Next in importance to light, is the matter of temperature. The ordinary house plants, to be kept in health, require a temperature of sixty-five to seventy-five degrees during the day and fifty to fifty-five degrees at night. Frequently it will not be possible to keep the room from going lower at night, but it should be kept as near that as possible; forty-five degrees occasionally will not do injury, and even several degrees lower will not prove fatal, but if frequently reached the plants will be checked and seem to stand still. Plants in the dormant, or semi-dormant condition are not so easily injured by low temperature as those in full growth; also plants which are quite dry will stand much more cold than those in moist soil.

The proper condition of temperature is the most difficult thing to regulate and maintain in growing plants in the house. There is, however, at least one room in almost every house where the night temperature does not often go below forty-five or fifty degrees, and if necessary all plants may be collected into one room during very cold weather. Another precaution which will often save them is to move them away from the windows; put sheets of newspaper inside the panes, not, however, touching the glass, as a “dead air space” must be left between. Where there is danger of freezing, a kerosene lamp or stove left burning in the room overnight will save them. Never, when the temperature outside is below freezing, should plants be left where leaves or blossoms may touch the glass.

As with the problem of light, so with that of temperature–the specially designed place for plants, no matter how small or simple a little nook it may be, offers greater facility for furnishing the proper conditions. But it is, of course, not imperative, and as I have said, there is probably not one home in twenty where a number of sorts of plants cannot be safely carried through the winter.
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After so much advice as to the possibility of making conditions right for the growing of plants in the house, the inexperienced reader will naturally want to know what these conditions are.

LIGHT

In the first place, almost all plants, whether they flower or not, must have an abundance of light, and many require sunshine, especially during the dull days of winter. Plants without sufficient light never make a normal, healthy growth; the stems are long, lanky and weak, the foliage has a semi-transparent, washed-out look, and the whole plant falls an easy victim to disease or insect enemies. Even plants grown in the full light of a window, as everyone with any experience in managing them knows from observation, will draw toward the glass and become one-sided with the leaves all facing one way. Therefore even with the best of conditions, it is necessary to turn them half about every few days, preferably every time they are watered, in order that they may maintain an even, shapely growth.

As a rule the flowering plants, such as geraniums and heliotropes, require more light and sunshine than those grown for foliage, such as palms, ferns and the decorative leaved begonias. It is almost impossible, during the winter months, to give any of them too much sunlight and where there is any danger of this, as sometimes happens in early fall or late spring, a curtain of the thinnest material will give them ample protection, the necessity being not to exclude the light, but simply to break the direct action of the sun’s rays through glass.

A great variety of plants may be grown in the ordinary window garden, for which the sunniest and broadest window available should be selected.
There are two methods of handling the plants: they may be kept as individual specimens in pots and “dishes” or “pans” (which are nothing more or less than shallow flower pots), or they may be grown together in a plant box, made for the purpose and usually more or less decorative in itself, that will harmonize with and set off the beauty of the plants.

The latter method, that of growing in boxes, offers two distinct advantages, especially where there is likely to be encountered too high a temperature and consequent dryness in the air. The plants are more easily cared for than they are in pots, which rapidly dry out and need frequent changing; and effects in grouping and harmonious decoration may be had which are not readily secured with plants in pots. On the other hand, it is not possible to give such careful attention to individual plants which may require it as when they are grown in pots; nor can there be so much re-arrangement and change when these are required–and what good housekeeper is not a natural born scene shifter, every once in so often rolling the piano around to the other side of the room, and moving the bookcase or changing the big Boston fern over to the other window, so it can be seen from the dining-room?

If the plants are to be kept in pots–and on the whole this will generally be the more satisfactory method–several shelves of light, smooth wood of a convenient width (six to twelve inches) should be firmly placed, by means of the common iron brackets, in each window to be used. It will help, both in keeping the pots in place and in preventing muddy water from dripping down to the floor or table below, if a thin, narrow strip of wood is nailed to each edge of these shelves, extending an inch or two above them. A couple of coats of outside paint will also add to the looks and to the life of these shelves and further tend to prevent any annoying drip from draining pots. Such a shelf will be still further improved by being covered an inch or two deep with coarse gravel or fine pebbles.
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